Men's Autumn Winter Shoes: Models, Materials and How to Protect Them
Autumn and winter change three things about men's shoes: material, colour and protection from water. This guide covers the right models for cold weather, how to pair them, and how to protect them from rain, mud and road salt.
What changes compared to summer
In summer, lightness and breathability matter most. In autumn and winter the priority flips: you need materials that keep the foot warm and dry, deeper and darker colours, and a sole that holds on wet surfaces. It doesn't mean giving up on elegance — it means choosing models built for that context.
The boot: the season's protagonist
If the loafer rules summer, in autumn-winter it's the boot that covers the widest range of situations: it protects the ankle, insulates better against the cold, and pairs well with heavier trousers like flannel and corduroy.
- Chelsea boot: the most versatile. No laces, elegant enough for the office, casual enough for the weekend. The Liverpool in mocha suede is the version best suited to mid-season
- Laced boot: more formal, more structured. The Dakar holds up well even in structured office settings
- Mountain boot: born for alpine settings, today also a sturdy city shoe. The Bormio is the choice for anyone after something more technical without giving up craftsmanship
For the choice between the two classic laced styles, the guide to Chelsea boots: what they are and how to wear them covers cuts and pairings in more depth.
Suede and nubuck: the season's materials
Suede is the material that defines menswear in autumn-winter more than any other: matte, soft, warm to the eye even before it's warm to the touch. On laced shoes like derbies and Chelsea boots, suede in mocha or dark brown communicates exactly the right register for the season — less shiny than calf leather, better suited to wool, flannel and overcoats.
Nubuck, suede's cousin with a finer grain, behaves the same way but with a slightly more refined finish — good for settings that call for a touch more formality.
Watch out for water: both materials absorb moisture more than smooth leather. A protective spray applied before the first use of the season makes a huge difference.
Colours for cold weather
Autumn-winter calls for darker, deeper shades than summer:
- Dark brown and mocha: the most suitable brown shades — dark enough to hold up against wool and overcoats
- Black: still the safest choice for the office and winter formal occasions
- Deep navy: a less obvious alternative, works very well on a suede boot
The full rules for pairing shades of brown with trousers and suits are in the guide to shoes with grey trousers, particularly useful this season alongside flannel.
Protecting your shoes from rain, mud and salt
Winter is the toughest season for a leather shoe. Three habits make the difference:
- Waterproof before wearing. A protective spray on leather and suede creates a barrier that reduces water absorption. Reapply every 3-4 weeks of heavy use
- Dry them properly after rain. Never near a direct heat source — the leather dries out and cracks. Absorbent paper inside and drying at room temperature, with cedar shoe trees in, works best
- Road salt: the real enemy. Salt dehydrates leather and leaves white marks that are hard to remove. After exposure, cleaning with a damp cloth and a nourishing cream restores the leather's elasticity
The full maintenance routine, useful year-round but especially important in winter, is in the guide to cleaning and caring for leather shoes. For suede, care is different: find it in the suede care guide.
Pairings by context
The office
A laced boot or classic derby, smooth leather, dark brown or black. With a wool or grey flannel suit, the register stays correct throughout. More detail in the guide to men's office dress code.
Weekends and free time
A suede Chelsea boot, with jeans or corduroy trousers. It's the simplest and most photographed combination of the season, and not by accident: it almost always works.
Mountains and refined outdoor
A mountain boot like the Bormio, with technical trousers or heavy chinos. The more structured sole holds up better on uneven ground without giving up handcrafted construction.
Three mistakes to avoid this season
- Suede with no protection. The first rainstorm without a waterproofing spray leaves permanent marks
- Drying near a radiator. The leather dries too fast and cracks — drying needs to be slow
- Shades too light with heavy wool. A light tan with a dark winter coat breaks the outfit's coherence — better to go darker, towards dark brown
Frequently asked questions
Can suede be worn in the rain?
Yes, with a protective spray applied before wearing. Avoid only in very heavy rain or deep puddles: standing water gets through regardless.
What's the most versatile model for winter?
The suede Chelsea boot. It works at the office with smart trousers and on weekends with jeans, without ever looking out of place.
How do you remove road salt from leather?
With a slightly damp cloth, using circular motions, followed by a nourishing cream once dry. Don't use hot water or dry-rub the stain.
Is smooth leather or suede better for winter?
It depends on the context: smooth leather is more water-resistant and more formal, suede is warmer to the eye and more casual. For the office, go with smooth leather; for free time, suede.
Mille885 boots and derbies for the cold season are made in the Fermano district with Blake stitching, in calf leather and suede. Browse the full selection in the boots collection or in laced shoes.